Stories & advice from Brazil

Written by us, living in Brazil, seasonal tips, destination know-how and the small details that make a private journey exceptional.

Stalls of fruit and prepared food in a covered São Paulo market hall

Money in Brazil: 5 Mistakes That Cost Travelers Real Money

Money in Brazil comes down to five mistakes: changing cash at home, carrying too much of it, a card with foreign fees, no backup card and tipping twice.

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Late afternoon light on a slow Pantanal river seen from a small boat

The Pantanal and Bonito: Two and a Half Hours Apart

The best wildlife density in the Americas and the clearest fresh water in Brazil sit two and a half hours apart by road, out of one airport. How many days each half needs, in which order, and what the pair costs.

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Riders crossing open Pantanal floodplain on Pantaneiro working horses at first light

A Pantanal Fazenda Is a Farm With Guests, Not a Lodge

A working cattle ranch that takes a handful of guests because the wetland brought them. What a day on a southern Pantanal fazenda actually looks like, whether you need to ride, and the line in the small print about the guiding.

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A quiet cobbled street in the old town of Paraty, short enough to walk home from dinner

Solo Travel in Brazil: What It Costs and Where It Works

Every solo guide to Brazil answers whether it is dangerous. None of them answer what a single room does to your invoice, or whether a trip runs when there is one of you. Both have numbers.

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The Rio Negro seen from a boat in the Brazilian Amazon, dark water running towards a distant wall of rainforest

Is the Amazon Rainforest Worth Visiting? It Depends What You Came For

Half the internet calls the Amazon the trip of their life, the other half saw nothing but green. Both are right, and the difference is what they came for.

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Aerial view of the Iguaçu Falls, the least disputed stop on a first trip to Brazil

The Best Places to Visit in Brazil, Sorted by First Trip or Second

Every list ranks Brazil by beauty, which is useless when the places are three hour flights apart. Sorted instead by what belongs on a first trip: Rio, Iguaçu, one wild place, and somewhere to stop.

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Flooded grassland and open water in the Pantanal wetland of western Brazil

What and Where Is the Pantanal, and Why It Beats the Amazon for Wildlife

The largest tropical wetland on earth, 140,000 square kilometres in western Brazil, of which only 1.3 percent is the UNESCO site. Where it is, why the flood cycle makes the wildlife visible, and how it differs from the Amazon.

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Traditional Amazon riverboat on the dark water of the Rio Negro near Manaus

Amazon River Cruises, Brazil or Peru: Three Different Things With One Name

Ocean liners docking at Manaus, luxury expedition ships that almost all sail in Peru, and small Brazilian riverboats. One phrase, three unrelated trips, and the difference costs people a holiday.

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Calm palm-fringed beach on the Coconut Coast in Bahia, where most of Brazil's resorts sit

All-Inclusive Resorts in Brazil: 5 Things the Booking Page Won't Tell You

All-inclusive resorts in Brazil exist, about two dozen of them, on the beaches of Bahia and Alagoas. What does not exist is the Caribbean version where the resort is the whole holiday. Five things the booking page will not tell you, and what to do instead.

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The turquoise bay of Baía do Sancho seen from the clifftop viewpoint on Fernando de Noronha

Fernando de Noronha: 3 Costs That Catch Every First Visitor

An archipelago 350 kilometres out in the Atlantic where seventy percent is a marine national park and visitor numbers are capped. Three costs catch first-timers: the flight, the environmental tax and the park ticket. Plus when to go and how many days it deserves.

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A snorkeller drifting above schools of fish in the clear spring water near Nobres

Nobres, Brazil: The Clear Water on the Other Side of the Pantanal

Everybody who wants clear water in Brazil is sent to Bonito, which pairs with the southern Pantanal. If your Pantanal is the northern one, there is a second answer a road transfer from Cuiabá, and almost nobody mentions it.

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Turquoise rainwater lagoons winding between the white dunes of the Lençóis Maranhenses

The Rota das Emoções: How to Get From the Lençóis to Jericoacoara

On a map they look a few hundred kilometres apart with nothing but coast between. There is no road that does it. What there is instead is a week of speedboat, 4x4, river ferry and buggy, and that week has a name.

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