Most itineraries reach Brasília only to change planes. Three hours north, the land climbs onto the Planalto Central and turns into the cerrado: rolling grassland, rock the colour of rust, and rivers stained tea-brown by the roots they run through. Chapada dos Veadeiros is where that landscape is at its best, and the national park at its heart is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
It is a trip built around walking to water. A river cut into pale stone at Vale da Lua, a 50 metre fall at Almécegas with a natural pool at the foot of the smaller one, a day-long circuit past old quartz diggings to the Rio Preto cascades, and a canyon at Couros where you descend about halfway down the walls. The paths are real hiking, steeper and rockier than a stroll, but every day has a swim and a long lunch built in.