A single walker on a dune crest above a turquoise rainwater lagoon in the Lençóis Maranhenses

Signature Journey

Adventure & Active

Rather do than watch

Fourteen days of doing rather than watching: the hardest hike in Rio, an inflatable straight under the Iguaçu falls, surf and forest trails on our home island, and a three-day crossing of the Lençóis dunes on foot.

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Duration

14 days / 13 nights, and it works from 11

Start / End

Rio de Janeiro → Lençóis Maranhenses

Accommodation

Boutique hotels, a surf pousada, oasis huts

Highlights

Pedra da Gávea · Macuco Safari · Surf · Dune crossing

Most Brazil itineraries are built around viewpoints you drive to. This one is built around the days you earn. It is for people whose idea of a good holiday involves sore legs, salt in your hair and at least one moment where you are not entirely sure you can do the next bit.

The route runs the length of the country and gets harder as it goes. Rio first, where the Atlantic forest starts inside the city and the best view in town is a four-hour scramble rather than a cable car. Then Iguaçu, where you take an inflatable straight into the spray under the cataracts. Then Florianópolis, our home island, where the surf and the forest trails are the whole point. And finally the Lençóis Maranhenses, where you walk for three days across a desert full of rainwater lagoons and sleep in oasis villages that have no road to them.

Nothing here is a fixed departure and nothing is graded for the average of a group. Every day is private and matched to what you actually want: your guide will happily take the harder line up Pedra da Gávea, or route around it entirely. The dune crossing is the one part with a real fitness threshold, and there is an honest answer about that in the questions below.

Fourteen days as written. It works at eleven if you drop a region, and we would drop one rather than shorten all of them.

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  • Pedra da Gávea, the hardest hike in Rio, and the only place you look down on the whole city and the sea at once
  • Tandem hang-gliding off Pedra Bonita, landing on the sand at São Conrado
  • The Macuco Safari, an inflatable driven straight into the spray beneath the Iguaçu falls
  • Surf, sandboard and Atlantic-forest trails on Florianópolis, where we live
  • Three days on foot across the Lençóis dunes, sleeping in oasis villages with no road in
  • Every day privately guided and graded to you, not to a group average

The active route

Four regions, and each one asks more of you

The order is deliberate. Rio gets your legs under you, Iguaçu is the adrenaline day, Florianópolis is where you find your rhythm in the water, and the Lençóis crossing is the thing you came for. By the time you start walking into the dunes you have had eleven days of build-up.

  1. 1 Rio de Janeiro
  2. 2 Foz do Iguaçu
  3. 3 Florianópolis
  4. 4 Lençóis Maranhenses

This is just one example of how your days could unfold, every itinerary is private and fully tailored, so we gladly reshape it around your pace, interests and travel dates.

Amazônia Chapada Diamantina Praia do Forte Salvador Pantanal Ilha Grande Paraty São Paulo Minas Gerais 1 Rio de Janeiro 3 nights 2 Foz do Iguaçu 2 nights 3 Florianópolis 4 nights 4 Lençóis Maranhenses 4 nights · 3 of them in the dunes
A rainforest trail in the Tijuca National Park above Rio de Janeiro
01

Rio de Janeiro

Day 1–3

3 nights

Rio is the only city in the world where the rainforest starts in the middle of it, which makes it the right place to start a trip like this. Three nights, and none of them spent queueing for a cable car you could have hiked to instead.

  1. Day 1

    Landing, and a look at what you signed up for

    Met inside the terminal and driven to a hotel a block from Ipanema. Nothing is scheduled, but if the flight has not flattened you there is a run or a swim to be had before dark, and your guide will point out the flat-topped rock on the horizon that you are climbing the day after tomorrow.

    • Airport pickup
    • Arrival day
  2. Day 2

    Pedra da Gávea, the hard one

    Just under 850 metres straight up out of the sea, roughly four to five hours round trip, and near the top a slab of bare rock you go up on hands and feet with a guide on the rope. What you get for it is the view nobody else on your flight home will have: the whole city on one side, open Atlantic on the other, and hang-gliders below you. There is an easier summit if you would rather, and no shame in saying so at breakfast.

    • 842 m
    • Scramble section
    • Guided on rope
  3. Day 3

    Off a ramp, then into the surf

    The morning is spent stepping off a wooden ramp at Pedra Bonita strapped to a hang-glider and a pilot, which takes about eight minutes and ends with a soft landing on the sand at São Conrado. The afternoon goes west to Prainha, the surf beach cariocas drive out to at the weekend, with a board and a lesson if you want one. If the wind cancels the flight, and sometimes it does, the day becomes the Tijuca waterfall trails instead.

    • Tandem flight
    • Prainha surf
    • Weather dependent
Flight Rio → Foz do Iguaçu
Water pouring into the Devil's Throat at the Iguaçu Falls
02

Foz do Iguaçu

Day 4–5

2 nights

275 waterfalls over a cliff nearly three kilometres wide. Most visitors look at them from a walkway. You will do that too, on both sides, because the Argentine walkways over the Devil's Throat are genuinely one of the great things to stand on. But the reason we come here on this trip is the boat.

  1. Day 4

    Straight in under the cataracts

    The Brazilian side first, the panorama trail that gives you the whole sweep in one look. Then the Macuco Safari: a jeep track down through the forest, into an inflatable, and the driver takes you upriver and straight into the base of the falls, twice, because the first time nobody manages to keep their eyes open. Dry bag for everything. You will be soaked to the skin and it is worth it.

    • Brazilian side
    • Macuco Safari
    • You will get soaked
  2. Day 5

    The Argentine side, then south

    Across the border early, before the day groups, for the walkways that carry you out over the lip of the Devil's Throat, where the falls stop being in front of you and start being all around you. If there is appetite for more, the Poço Preto trail can be ridden by bike and finished by boat. Evening flight south to the island.

    • Devil's Throat
    • Bike trail optional
    • Evening flight
Flight Foz do Iguaçu → Florianópolis
Panoramic view over the coastline and hills of Florianópolis
03

Florianópolis

Day 6–9

4 nights

This is where we live, so this section is not researched, it is just what we do at the weekend. Forty-two beaches on one island, an Atlantic forest running down to the sand in the south, and a surf culture that is the real thing rather than a photo opportunity. Four nights, because the island is the part of this route people always wish they had given another day.

  1. Day 6

    Learning the island

    You can drive the island end to end in about ninety minutes, and doing exactly that on the first day is the fastest way to understand it: the developed, sociable north with its flat water, and the raw south with dirt access roads and beaches you can only walk to. We finish in the south, which is where you will want to be for the next three days.

    • Island orientation
    • North and south
  2. Day 7

    Surf, and a dune to slide down

    A morning in the water at Praia Mole or Joaquina with an instructor who will have you standing up, whatever you claim about your coordination. Joaquina also has a wall of sand behind it that people have been sandboarding down since the seventies, and it is exactly as ridiculous and as fun as it sounds. Late afternoon, oysters at Ribeirão da Ilha, which are farmed in the channel in front of the table.

    • Surf lesson
    • Sandboarding
    • Oysters
  3. Day 8

    Lagoinha do Leste, on foot only

    The best beach on the island has no road to it, which is the whole reason it is the best beach on the island. About an hour and a half over a forested ridge from Pântano do Sul, dropping onto a wide arc of sand with a lagoon behind it and usually a couple of dozen people on it. Swim, eat what you carried in, walk back over the other trail, or take a boat if your legs have opinions.

    • No road access
    • Ridge trail
    • Boat return option
  4. Day 9

    Paddling, and the long flight north

    A gentler last morning: a kayak on Lagoa do Peri or the Costa da Lagoa trail, where you walk in along the water to a village with no road and come back by boat with a plate of fish inside you. Then the airport, and the one genuinely long travel leg of this trip, up to São Luís in the far northeast. We time it so you arrive with an evening to sleep before the dunes.

    • Kayak or lagoon trail
    • Long flight north
Flight Florianópolis → São Luís, then road to the park
Palm trees and simple houses of the Queimada dos Britos oasis surrounded by white dunes
04

Lençóis Maranhenses

Day 10–14

4 nights · 3 of them in the dunes

A thousand square kilometres of white dunes that fill with rainwater every year and turn into thousands of freshwater lagoons. It is not a desert, it rains too much for that, and that contradiction is the whole point of the place. Almost everyone sees it on a half-day jeep tour from Barreirinhas. You are going to walk across it, which is a completely different thing.

  1. Day 10

    To the edge of the sand

    Overland from São Luís to the gateway village, an afternoon to check the pack, and an early night. Your guide goes through what you carry and what stays behind, which is more than you think: everything you need for three days has to go on your back or on the mule, and water is the heavy part.

    • Overland transfer
    • Kit check
  2. Day 11

    Into the dunes, and the first lagoons

    You start before the sun is properly up, because by eleven the sand is too hot to be pleasant. The first crest is the moment the trip makes sense: white sand to the horizon in every direction with turquoise water sitting in every hollow, and no structure of any kind in sight. Swim in whichever lagoon you like. You sleep at Baixa Grande, an oasis of a few families and a lot of palm trees, in a hammock, and the Milky Way is genuinely the brightest thing you have ever seen.

    • Dawn start
    • Lagoon swims
    • Hammock night
  3. Day 12

    The deep middle

    The longest day, and the one furthest from anything. You cross to Queimada dos Britos, a settlement of a handful of families who have lived inside the park for generations and who cook you dinner. There is no electricity, no phone signal and no road, and the quiet in the middle of the afternoon is a thing people remember longer than the view.

    • Longest stage
    • No signal
    • Family kitchen
  4. Day 13

    The last crest, and the sea

    A shorter day that ends the way the whole thing was always going to end: you come over a final dune and the Atlantic is in front of you. Down into Atins, a fishing village of sand streets that has only recently stopped being entirely off the map, a shower, and a plate of prawns you will think about for a while.

    • Dunes to Atlantic
    • Atins
    • First shower in three days
  5. Day 14 · Finale

    Down the river, and home

    Out by boat down the Rio Preguiças rather than by road, past the Mandacaru lighthouse and the sandbanks, which is both the nicest way to leave and the fastest. Then São Luís and the flight home. If you have days left, this is the natural place to add them: Jericoacoara is along the coast from here, and it is where a lot of people wish they had gone next.

    • Rio Preguiças by boat
    • Departure

Fourteen days. One of them ends at the sea, on foot.

Tell us your dates and roughly how hard you want this to be, and you will have a personal, non-binding version of the route within 24 hours.

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What's Included

Included in this journey

Guides who do this themselves

A climbing guide on Pedra da Gávea, a surf instructor on the island, and a Lençóis guide who grew up walking these dunes. English or German speaking, and none of them is reading from a script.

Every activity as described

Pedra da Gávea with technical support, the tandem flight, both sides of Iguaçu, the Macuco Safari, surf and sandboard sessions, the Lagoinha trail and the full three-day dune crossing with permits and porterage.

Every transfer and domestic flight

Three domestic flights booked and timed around the activities, all airport pickups, and the overland and river legs at the Lençóis end. The long hop north is planned so you sleep before you walk.

A bed that matches the day

Boutique hotels in Rio and Iguaçu, a surf pousada in the south of Florianópolis, and in the dunes a hammock under a palm roof, which is not a downgrade but the best night of the trip.

The safety side, handled quietly

Ropes and helmets where they belong, certified operators for the flight and the boat, water and electrolytes carried on the crossing, and an honest conversation beforehand about what each day actually demands.

Days that can be swapped

Wind cancels hang-gliding, swell flattens, and the dune lagoons are seasonal. Every stop has a planned alternative that is not a consolation prize, and we tell you the fallback before you go, not on the morning.

Good to know

Frequently asked questions

How fit do we actually need to be for the dune crossing? +

This is the one part of the trip with a real threshold, so here is the honest version. You walk roughly six to eight hours a day for three days, on soft sand, which is meaningfully harder than the same distance on a path, in heat, with no shade and no way to bail out halfway through the middle day. There is no technical difficulty at all: no climbing, no exposure, nothing you need a head for. If you regularly do a full day in the hills and enjoy it, you will be fine. If your honest answer is that a long walk is not really your thing, say so and we will build the same route with the three-day crossing replaced by day walks from a comfortable base, which is a genuinely good trip and not a watered-down one. What we will not do is talk you into the crossing and hope for the best, because the middle of that park is the wrong place to discover the answer.

When are the lagoons actually full? +

The Lençóis only works in a window, and anyone who tells you otherwise is selling you a trip to a sandpit. The rains fall roughly January to May, the lagoons fill behind them, and the sweet spot is June to September, with July and August the fullest and most reliable. By late October many lagoons have dried out and the walk loses the thing that makes it extraordinary. This is the single biggest constraint on the whole itinerary, and it drives the dates rather than the other way round: tell us when you can travel and we will tell you straight whether the crossing is worth doing in that month, or whether we should build the trip around a different finale.

What is the accommodation like in the dunes, honestly? +

Basic, and deliberately so. You sleep in a hammock under a palm-thatched roof in a family's yard, there is no electricity beyond a bit of solar, the shower is a bucket drawn from a well, and the toilet is what you would expect. The food is cooked by the family and is much better than that description suggests. Nobody has ever come back from this complaining about the accommodation, because after eight hours on sand a hammock and a plate of chicken and rice under that sky is not roughing it, it is the point. If you would rather not, the day-walk version uses a comfortable pousada every night.

Is Pedra da Gávea really necessary, or is there a softer option? +

It is not compulsory and you can decide on the morning. The final section is a slab you go up on hands and feet with the guide belaying, and while thousands of ordinary people do it every month, it is genuinely uncomfortable if you dislike exposure. The alternatives are good rather than consolation: Pedra Bonita is a fraction of the effort with three quarters of the view, Morro Dois Irmãos from Vidigal is an hour up and looks straight down the length of Ipanema, and the Tijuca waterfall circuits are a full day in the forest with nothing steep at all. Your guide carries the kit for the hard version regardless, so changing your mind costs nothing.

Four regions in fourteen days. Is that too much moving? +

It is a fair question and the answer is that three of the four legs are short and one is not. Rio to Iguaçu is under two hours in the air, Iguaçu to Florianópolis about the same, and both are evening flights that cost you no daylight. The leg from the island up to São Luís is the long one, usually with a connection, and we treat it as a travel day rather than pretending it is free. If you want less movement, the region we would cut is Iguaçu, which is the shortest stop and the one most likely to appear on another Brazil trip later. That gives you eleven days with more time on the island and no loss of intensity.

Can we add the Amazon, or swap something in? +

Yes, and there are three swaps worth knowing about. The Amazon adds dawn kayaking on the Rio Negro's side channels and a jungle trek from a lodge, and it slots in after Iguaçu at the cost of three or four days. Chapada Diamantina is the trekking region we would pick if you want more walking and fewer flights, with waterfalls, caves and a plateau you climb for sunrise. And if you want the coast rather than the city at the start, Ilha Grande has a dawn summit of Pico do Papagaio and sea kayaking, and works as a replacement for the Rio days rather than an addition to them.

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